Project Interchange Israel- Day 4

03 Jan 2010, Posted by Sabrina Rubakovic in News, 1 Comments

The Chronicle’s Sabrina Rubakovic is a part of a week-long trip in Israel with Project Interchange, an institute of the American Jewish Committee. She is one of many representatives from American campus newspapers visiting the Middle Eastern country to broaden perspectives of the region and explore Israeli-American relations. Rubakovic will be blogging daily about her experience.

Today, I walked on water. Well, I didn’t really walk, but I didn’t swim either. I simply floated, thanks to the unbelievably high levels of salt in the Dead Sea. This was one of the many beautiful stops my group made today. Prior to that, we went on a nature hike in Ein Gedi National Park, an oasis that contained tall palm trees, towering cliffs, deep canyons, numerous desert animals roaming around feet away from you and a breathtaking view of the bright blue Mediterranean beyond. My favorite part was the waterfall-laden ponds, where we were able to swim, jumping off a small cliff into the water and paddling against a powerful waterfall. And even though we’re in the heart of winter, the sun beat down warmly on us as we hiked up what felt like one million steep, narrow steps throughout the trail.

A waterfall in Ein Gedi National Park

The breathtaking view from Ein Gedi National Park

After taking a plethora of pictures of the gorgeous landscape of Ein Gedi, we went to Masada, the remains of one of Herod the Great‘s palaces. I thought Ein Gedi was beautiful, but this was something else. We had to take a cable car to reach the enormous fortress/palace, and I can’t deny that I was pretty nervous looking down from our high elevation (which was actually only 190 feet above sea level but very high compared to where our tour bus was parked). We walked through Herod’s “snake path” of palace management buildings, his bathhouses, and his private quarters. Almost all of the remains were only rebuilt partially to their original form, so we again experienced the warmth of the sun while touring the open-roofed ancient buildings. There were about three levels to the complex, and everything was made out of stone, blending in seamlessly with the vast expanse of canyon around it and below it.

Remains of the Masada palace

The view from the top of Masada

All of the walking certainly warranted a break, so our group ventured to the Dead Sea, one of the highest salinified bodies of water in the world. While there, we lathered up with spa-quality mud from the sea, which apparently is excellent for the skin. After jumping into the water, I was astonished to see that no swimming was required in this sea. No, the salt levels made it so that one could simply float on their back or stomach as if laying on a bed, or bob up and down as if you were on a trampoline. So, it wasn’t much of a workout, but it was, without a doubt, a once in a lifetime experience. Well, after having such a great time there today, I think I’ll be going back more during my lifetime.

Lathering on Dead Sea mud

Then, we started the educational portion of the day. But it differed from previous days because we talked with two Arabs, providing differing insights on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The first speaker was Bassem Eid, the founder and director of the Palestinian Human Rights Monitoring Group. Eid not only spoke about the conflict with Israel, but also problems in Palestine’s internal relations. He said that there was a division within Palestinian society, and that efforts to bring out reconciliation and unity between Palestine’s two largest political parties–Fatah and Hamas–have failed. He also commented on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, sharing an anecdote about a conversation in 2007 with then-President George W. Bush, in which Bush aimed to create peace in one year. Eid said that he laughed when he heard this, mentioning a poll that displayed that 75 percent of Palestinians thought that peace would take 5 to 7 years to reach, and that a peace effort will fail if carried out too quickly.

Our next speaker, Issa Jaber, invited our group to a delicious traditional Middle Eastern home-cooked dinner at his home in the Israeli Arab town of Abu Gosh. He is the director of the education department of the Abu Gosh Local Council, and shared insights including the lack of equal opportunity for Arabs in Israel society. He spoke about the hardships faced by his son, who, despite earning good grades and passing his examinations in school, has been looked upon badly in interviews and has not been able to get a job. Even though Arabs are given equal protection under the laws, he said, de facto treatment is not so just. Jaber also commented on his opinions of media in the United States, sharing the same sentiment as Eid: American media focuses too heavily on the negative (this entails blood and sex, Eid said). He said that the media should focus less on the bad and more on the good things happening in the region.

After a very fun and educational day, I’m sad to say that it’s my last night in Israel. But the learning doesn’t stop yet: tomorrow I’ll be meeting with another six speakers to discuss topics from religious freedom to journalism to foreign affairs. Until then, laila tov (that’s goodnight in Hebrew).

Project Interchange Israel- Day 3

01 Jan 2010, Posted by Sabrina Rubakovic in News, 0 Comments

After the bumpy camel ride at the Bedouin camp, the Project Interchange Campus Media delegation left for Jerusalem. After about a one hour car ride, the beautiful tree-topped hills and endless sunny skyline popped into sight. After a few memorable pictures were taken, we went to the Yad VaShem Holocaust Museum. The museum was extremely powerful in its conveyance of the atrocities of the Holocaust, its impact on the European continent, and its aftermath. One feature I found effective was the symbolism of the building’s design. The main part of the museum led visitors through a snakepath of interactive exhibits, full of artifacts, videos, surround sound, and even a replica of one of the most popular streets in a Jewish ghetto for people to walk on. As I proceeded through the timeline of World War II, the floor sloped slightly downhill, displaying the declining fate of the Jewish people. When it reached the point where camps were liberated by the Allied powers, the floor started sloping upward, indicating a more positive future. In addition, the building is pyramid-shaped and meant to be cold and dark, with only a sliver of light at the tip of the pyramid to illustrate hope. Another building in the museum complex is a memorial to the 1.5 million children that died in the Holocaust, and uses a system of mirrors and candles to make visitors feel like they are looking into outer space when inside, all while repeating the names, home cities, and ages of the vicitims. This was meant to represent the Jewish belief that children are extremely important, the future—the universe.

Another major aspect of the museum is its transition from previously held attitudes toward the Holocaust in Israel. Our next speaker explained that after the Holocaust, Jews found themselves guilty for not taking more action to stop the atrocities taking place. Thus, groups involved in the tragedy were polarized between the heroes, who were valiantly portrayed in the museum, and the victims, who were portrayed with bowed heads and incomplete bodies. The speaker explained that a rabbi in New York said the Holocaust happened due in part to the Zionistic movement, while others believed that it was due to a lack of Zionism and willingness to fight. Ultimately, mindsets have shifted to thinking that Jews are not at fault for the Holocaust, and in the new design of the building designers made sure to portray Jewish life before the Holocaust. I found this very powerful and effective in prizing the culture of the victims, rather than showing them as at fault.

The group then went on a tour of the Old City of Jerusalem. Barely scratching its surface, we visited one of the oldest Greek Orthodox churches, where Jesus Christ is said to have died. We reached the beautfiul, tourist-packed church after walking through the maze-like bazaar market of the city, complete with endless stores of Mediterranean menentos and even a group of elderly men playing backgammon. After that, we made our way tot he Western Wall to welcom the sabbath, or shabbat. The wall is one of the remains of a platform King Herod built for the previously standing Jewish temple, and is currently a highly popular synagogue for Orthodox Jews. The area was extremely packed with visitors this evening, many attempting to fulfill the tradition of placing a written message of prayer within the cracks of the wall. We will definitely be back this weekend to tour these areas when they’re not as crowded with visitors.

After experiencing the Old City, I took part in the tradition of the Shabat family dinner on Friday night. Our group was hosted by an Israeli family living by Jerusalem, where we were introduced to the traditions of the Shabbat dinner, including the custom of washing one’s hands before the meal and the Hebrew prayers recited prior to eating. Overall, Shabbat entails many customs that I was not aware of: ideally, Jews were not supposed to brush their hair, turn on lights, write, or play music on Shabat, which extended from Friday evening to Saturday evening. The rabbi even recently mandated that Jews should not pick their noses on Shabbat because that may pull out a nose hair, and tearing hair is prohibited.

And even though I’ve been in this country for only 80 hours, the chock-full, multi-faceted educational days like today make it feel like I’ve been here much longer. I’m sure that tomorrow will be just as exciting: we’re learning about Palestinian points of view, taking a nature hike through a desert oasis, and swimming in the Dead Sea (more like floating, actually).

Project Interchange Israel- Day 2

01 Jan 2010, Posted by Sabrina Rubakovic in News, 1 Comments

So I’m a little late for the day 2 blog post, but I have a valid excuse: the Bedouin tent we spent New Year’s eve in didn’t have Internet access. Yes, it was a great way to start off the New Year. The day began back in Tel Aviv, where we met with soldiers in the Israeli Defense Force. They talked about their experiences in the army, navy, air force, and even as an army doctor. One of the most intriguing aspects of our discussion was how the IDF differed from the American army. Although both nations share democratic and capitalistic ideals, many aspects of the armed forces differ. The debate that we’ve had in the States over whether or not homosexuals should be allowed in the army, for example, is a non-issue in Israel, as there is no formal policy—as made evident by the blank looks on the soldiers’ faces when we asked them if they had a Don’t Ask Don’t Tell-like policy. As the air force pilot stated, it doesn’t matter what they do in their free time, but just how they perform in action. This tolerance has not completely translated over to gender equality, however, as women and men usually have differing positions hierarchically and women have their own battalions. But the IDF has made signifcant headway towards lifting a gender bias, giving more women military roles normally held by men.

After this discussion, our group left for what I see as the most fascinating part of the trip: a tour of kibbutz life, something entirely unlike what I had learned about in school. The community is hard to describe—somewhere between a town and a village, with school buildings, residential areas, a cafeteria and plenty of beautiful natural landscape. We talked with a member of the kibbutz, who explained the basic tenets of their style of living. They abide by a socialistic lifestyle, where everyone gives what they can, takes what they need and works their hardest for whatever job they have. Adults work from 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and receive a monthly budget that is calculated based on their needs. The man we were speaking with received $500 a month, which is sufficient living wage because the kibbutz provides all members with the basic needs of food, health care and housing. There’s even a lot of 70 cars to choose from when you need a ride. But he said one of the main challenges of living in such a society is maintaining one key aspect: trust. Trust between all members of the kibbutz is a core factor to the maintenance of the community. In addition, people have to be satisfied with what they have, maintaining a balance between giving up some aspirations but never having to worry that their kids will go hungry. The kibbutz member explained the socialistic ideology as thus: people are not born equal and one person giving 100 percent to their work should be weighted the same amount in society as another person giving 100 percent to their work. Although the ideas are seemingly radical from an American perspective, the kibbutz is functioning fine, and I wouldn’t be opposed to spending a few months there myself.

After learning about kibbutz life, we talked to students at the kibbutz that immigrated to Israel, completing the aliyah, or ascension. The students study Hebrew for 5 months in their “absorption” process into society. The students came from all different areas, from France to the United Kingdom to Boston, Mass. Their motivations ranged from reconnecting to their Jewish roots to escaping the antisemitism of their home countries.

Our group then traveled to the town of Sderot, which has been subject to some of the largest amounts of bombings in the past eight years. We viewed many of the rockets that fell in the area, taking note of bomb shelters dispersed throughout the city and even in a children’s playground. The head of the town’s security force said that people have a 10-second notice to run to a bomb shelter. For some parents, he said, this means choosing which of your many kids you can successfully take with you. We then talked to a victim of many of the bombings and a native of a kibbutz in Sderot. She is an activist for a philanthropic group in the region, and spoke to us about the prevalence of post-traumatic stress disorder, which affects 70-90 percent of Israeli youth that were subject to the bombings.

After listening to these individuals speak to us about the horrors of the bombings, I could only wonder why they stayed in the region. For many, it turned out that they did not have the means to go to another area. But one strong reason for staying in Sderot was the Israeli’s unique connection to their land. They did not want to back down due to fear, for that may result in the entire area’s population leaving and succumbing to the aggression. This was not a viable option, especially for the female activist, who stated that her family grew up in the area and her aunt and uncle started the kibbutz in which she lived. This strengthened the impression I have been gaining throughout this trip that Israelis cherish the land of Israel due to their sense of being connected to their ancestors and Jewish heritage on that land.

Our final stop of the day was a Bedouin camp, in which we ate a traditional Middle Eastern dinner on the floor, and even had an African drumming lesson with a resident musician. We slept in a large tent that night, but not before we were able to count down the New Year many hours before our family and friends in the United States. In the morning, we rose early to take a camel ride, which was a frightening yet wonderful experience. Today, the group will venture to Jerusalem, a hotspot of religious life and culture in Israel.

Project Interchange Israel- Day 1

27 Dec 2009, Posted by Sabrina Rubakovic in News, 0 Comments

Today is my first full day in the state of Israel. I arrived yesterday after a 10 hour flight to Tel Aviv, where I am currently staying. Why am I in Israel over my lengthy Winter Break? I am a member of the Project Interchange journalism seminar, which is aimed at opening the eyes of university journalists to contemporary Israeli politics and its representation in the media. And even though I’ve only been here for less than 24 hours, the program has made significant headway towards that goal.

After arriving last night, our group of 17 students made our way to Maganda restauarant in Tel Aviv, where we were presented with plates after plates of Mediterranean dishes (the hummus from the Bryan Center and Whole Foods didn’t compare) and baskets after baskets of the best pita bread I’ve ever had. Over dinner, our group heard from Professor Yossi Shain, head of the Political Science Department at Tel Aviv University and visiting professor at Georgetown. Using pictures of the restaurant owner’s family displayed around the room to make his historical points about immigration into Israel, one of Professor Shain’s largest arguments was Israeli’s seeking normality in the face of abnormality. When I asked him to delve further into this, he explained that in light of war and conflict, Israelis only focus on how they can end the probem quickly, open back up their shops, and get on with their lives normally. With so many conflicts over Israel in the past half a century, such a mindset must be pretty useful.

Today, we talked with Professor Efram Imbar, Director of the Begin-Sadat Center for Strategic Studies at Bar Ilan University. Professor Imbar discussed Israel’s relationship with its Middle Eastern neighbors, touching on the strategic importance of peace treaties with Egypt and Jordan, as well as issues such as the threat posed by Iran and renewed Turkish hegemonic ambition in the region. One of the most interesting aspects of his lecture was the image of President Barack Obama in the Middle East. The professor said that Obama is very astute and well-spoken, but that words are not enough; they will not change entrenched attitudes and interests in the Arab world. This led Obama to be seen as a “weakling who speaks but does not deliver.” Along these lines, Professor Imbar did not have a very positive view of Bush’s Iraq policy either, arguing that change must come from within, and America cannot impose democracy on the Middle East.

Of course, the whole week will not be spent receiving history lessons and different takes on policy solutions. After the meeting with Professor Imbar, we had a roundtable discussion with student activists and journalists at Tel Aviv University. One of the biggest things that struck me about the students was their evident maturity in manner and in speaking, as we discussed topics from the road to peace in Israel to the legitimacy of Michael Moore’s documentaries. I quickly learned that this maturity was due to Israel’s requirement of military service for all men and most women at the age of 18. It turns out that 54% of the nation serves in the military, which they are placed in after testing and evaluation during the last year of high school. One young man, who is originally from Australia, stated that his service molded his identity as an Israeli. Usually, he said, you are around people of similar backgrounds and socieconomic status. In the miltary, however, you become immersed within a very wide spectrum of people from Israel. A girl from the former Soviet Union, who served as a commander of 10 soldiers, said that being responsible for so many lives at the age of 18 changed her way of thinking and gave her a more realistic understanding of the world. After this military service, most students would take a vacation before going to university–the boy sitting next to me told me that he backpacked in South America for 7 months. Thus, many Israeli students enter university with a much different and more adult mindset than most, making our roundtable discussion that much more stimulating.

After lunch with students at the Tel Aviv University cafeteria, our group visited the Shanti House in Southern Tel Aviv, which is a shelter for at-risk Israeli teenagers. It is the only one of its kind, using a methodology developed by founder Mariuma Ben Yosef. Yosef implemented a system in which anyone between the age of 14 and 21 that needs a place to call home and has either ran away or been abandoned is welcome at the house. The only requirement is that the children are willing to get help. After a quick background check, the kids’ files are thrown away, never to be looked at again. This is because Yosef believes in having them start with a clean slate, and moving on from the past. The children stay there for a week to many years, doing chores, going to school, and participating in theater, art, and literary workshops. Over 20,000 children have gone through the shelter, which takes in about 1,500 per year. I was surprised to find out that most kids found out about the house by word of mouth, since it is the most famous in Israel. Thanks to the Shanti House, kids that would have becom prostitutes or drug addicts become part of a family and are successfully assimilated into the military or work force of Israel.

I now find myself wondering how I’ve learned so much in less than 24 hours in Israel.With a meeting with international journalists later this evening, it looks like I’ll be learning even more pretty soon. But I’m sure I’ll find time to enjoy the warm waters of the Mediterranean, which is a block away from the hotel, sometime in between.

Israeli Filmmaker Workshop Tonight at 7PM

12 Oct 2009, Posted by Charlie McSpadden in Film, Playground, 0 Comments

Ram Loevy will be leading a workshop tonight at 7 PM tonight in the White Lecture Hall on East Campus. He will present film clips and discuss his career and practice.

From Duke’s Screen/Society:

“Ram Loevy is arguably Israel’s most distinguished television filmmaker. He has worked for the Israeli First Channel from its inception in the late 1960s, and has made over 50 documentaries, dramas and mini-series. Mr. Loevy’s films broke ground by introducing themes and subjects that until then were considered tabu, such as the Israeli Palestinian conflict, the plight of Palestinians under Israeli rule, poverty, the social gap and ethnic tensions. In addition to making films, Mr. Loevy is also on the faculty of the Arts at Tel Aviv University and at the Sam Spiegel Film and Television School. In 1993 Mr. Loevy was honored with the Israel Prize, Israel’s top honor.”

Mr. Loevy has been at Duke since August, teaching a class on Isarali Cinema with professor Shai Ginsburg.